With the uncertainties of an ongoing war, El Niño, cyberattacks, increasingly severe weather and who knows what else, it seems like a good time to have a plan for a prolonged power failure. So I’ve been looking at the options available to someone like me, living in a 2,800-square-foot suburban home in San Diego.
My objective was fairly modest. I wanted to keep the refrigerator and freezer running, maintain Wi-Fi, have a few lights and occasionally run appliances such as a microwave, TV or toaster. I wasn’t trying to power the entire house, particularly the air conditioning. I estimated that my essential loads would average about 800 watts, with occasional higher demands when appliances such as the refrigerator compressor start up.
There are essentially three approaches: batteries, permanently installed generators and portable generators. Each has significant advantages—and limitations.
The newest option being widely promoted is the large home backup battery. These are essentially supersized versions of the batteries we use to recharge our phones. Anker, Jackery, EcoFlow and others offer them in a wide range of capacities.
The larger units are substantial—some are about the size of carry-on roller luggage and weigh more than 100 pounds. But they are easy to use: Charge the battery from an electrical outlet, then plug your appliances directly into it. They have outlets and a display on them that lets you monitor usage and see how a particulr device changes consumption. There’s also an app that provides
The problem with batteries becomes apparent when a power failure lastsseveral days: How do you recharge the battery?
The Anker SOLIX F3800 is one model I have been considering. It stores 3,840 watt-hoursand costs about $2,700. Snapping on a second battery doubles the capacity to 7,680 watt-hours and pushes the price to $4,000.
At my estimated 800-watt average load, 7,680 watt-hours would provide about 9.6 hours of power. If I only used 400 watts through the day, we’d get about 19 hours. That isn’t enough for the kind of multi-day outage I’m looking for. The solution is solar panels, which can recharge the battery during daylight hours. If you already have a solar installation capable of charging the battery, that’s a significant advantage. If you don’t, you’ll need to purchase and deploy enough solar panels to produce meaningful amounts of electricity. In my case calculations came said I need at least a half dozen of Anker’s folding solar panels That adds another $3000 to the cost.
Once the cost of batteries and sufficient solar panels approaches $8,000 to $10,000, another option begins to look attractive: a permanently installed standby generator.
A Generac-type system sits outside the house, continuously monitoring utility power and automatically starts when the electricity fails. An automatic transfer switch disconnects the house from the utility and connects it to the generator.
Many residential systems run on natural gas, which has a major advantage during a prolonged outage: as long as the natural-gas supply remains available, the generator can continue producing electricity.
I had an electrician estimate the cost of installing a system for my house. The estimate was approximately $13,000 half for the generator and half for electrical work.
The home generator’s appeal is convenience. When the power fails, the generator starts automatically. Depending on the size of the system and how the electrical panel is configured, it can power selected circuits or much of the house. The disadvantage, of course, is the price. You’re spending thousands of dollars for a system that may sit unused for months or years.
The third option is the old-fashioned portable generator, although today’s models are considerably more sophisticated than the generators many of us remember.
They look somewhat like an electric lawn mower and sit outside the house. They use an internal-combustion engine to drive an alternator and can run on gasoline, propane or, with some models, natural gas. Many newer generators are inverter designs that vary engine speed according to electrical demand and produce relatively clean electricity suitable for sensitive electronics.
The biggest advantage is simple: You aren’t storing electricity; you’re storing fuel. A battery eventually runs out. A generator keeps producing electricity as long as you keep supplying fuel.
As an example, Champion makes a 5,000-watt tri-fuel generator that can run on gasoline, propane or natural gas. At 50% load, it can operate for approximately 12 hours on a full gasoline tank or about 6.5 hours on a 20-pound propane tank.
For a multiday outage, you therefore need an adequate supply of fuel or a way to obtain more. You can simply plug appliances into the generator with heavy-duty extension cords. But there are two significant drawbacks. First, a portable generator must be operated outdoors, well away from the house as it produces carbon monoxide, which can be deadly. Second, it makes noise. Depending on the model and load, it can be a fairly noticeable presence in your backyard.
After looking at all three approaches, I’ve come to a fairly simple conclusion.
Batteries are wonderfully convenient, quiet and clean, but a battery by itself isn’t a particularly good solution for a multiday outage. You need substantial additional battery capacity and a reliable way to recharge it, typically with solar.
A permanently installed generator is the most convenient solution. It starts automatically, can run for days and doesn’t require you to manage a collection of batteries. But it is also the most expensive option.
For my particular needs, the portable dual-fuel or tri-fuel generator looks like the most practical compromise. It isn’t as elegant as a battery or as effortless as a whole-house generator. It’s noisy, has to be operated outside and requires me to maintain a fuel supply. But with several propane tanks available, I can keep the refrigerator, freezer, Wi-Fi, lights and other essentials operating for days rather than hours.
Comparison table
| Battery Backup | Standby Generator | Portable Generator | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Typical cost | $3,000–$10,000+ with additional batteries/solar | ~$10,000–$20,000+ installed | ~$1,000–$3,000+ |
| How it produces power | Stored electricity | Natural gas/propane | Gasoline/propane/natural gas |
| Typical duration | Hours unless recharged | Days, while fuel supply lasts | Days, while fuel supply lasts |
| How it’s replenished | Wall outlet or solar | Continuous fuel supply | Add fuel |
| Solar required? | Not required, but highly useful | No | No |
| Automatic startup | No, generally | Yes | No |
| Noise | Silent | Moderate | Moderate to loud |
| Can power house circuits? | With appropriate equipment | Yes | Yes, with transfer switch |
| Maintenance | Low | Regular professional maintenance | Engine/fuel maintenance |
| Major limitation | Limited stored energy | High initial cost | Fuel, noise and manual operation |
| Best suited for | Quiet, short outages | Maximum convenience and long outages | Lower-cost, extended backup |
